The Prado exhibition on the Spanish portrait is wowing them worldwide with another month to run. I've made two attempts to get in so far, but the queues were too long and time too pressing, making John Berger's observation in an otherwise entertaining article that "the chance is that there are not too many other people at the exhibition" look slightly odd. "What is hanging in the air," writes Berger, "is a multitude of unspoken questions and answers emerging from a hundred lives." Meanwhile, enjoy El Greco's curiously modern Fray Hortensio Félix Paravicino. (The typically lavish catalogue - in Spanish only, I should imagine, knowing the Prado - can be bought here.)  
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